I'm sitting around a camp in Kakadu ! Yes we are here !! Yesterday was our first day and we spent it mostly in a four wheel drive hurtling along a road... well at least is was described on the map as a road; Perhaps one day it will grow from the track it is in part, to be one.

We are a group of nine, and one of us has yet to arrive, he will do so tomorrow. Firstly the small black bush flies are horrendous but I'm coping. Strange how I'd forgotten to consider them aside from packing the repellent. The usual run of the mill repellent has no effect on them, and the stronger repellent tends to sensitize your skin with continued use, so within all this is a small dilemma. I have a feeling I will be dealing with this nuisance with some irritation as time goes on.

Our party is a mixed group, we have one other married couple Howard and Merrin who are newlywed and Howard is a pain, perhaps he will improve. Then there is our guide Ron, who is a typical top-end rough-nut who is worth his salt. Feroze is our Iranian (Naum calls him a nutty Iranian chemist). He is the eldest in the group and suffered a touch of heat exhaustion yesterday but is otherwise coping well. Then there is Michael, a vet from the country, who is nice and approachable. Sebastian, our German backpacker, is an attractive lad, and easy going, but the assurance doesn't match the capabilities - perhaps a touch too much ego. I would hate to think how they view me. All in all it is a interesting mix.

Yesterday we began at the South Alligator River and moved to the junction of the Koolpin and up to the mouth of the Koolpin Gorge which is where we are camped now. The South Alligator River is an interesting name, considering alligators don't occur naturally in Oz. Perhaps it is the influence of the American Service men from W.W. II who spent so many years here in this region, though they would have found the crocodile a bigger handful than the docile alligator.

We have a emergency CB radio with us to maintain a contact, due to the length of our expedition. The isolation is akin almost to being on the Moon. It is comforting to know that we can contact the outside world should a emergency arise and I can see now how it would be difficult for one to imagine how truly isolated you are in this region, unless you have experienced it, with the thousands of kilometres of nothing but wilderness about you.

Today we will travel about 5km up into the Gorge. (Yesterday was 7km) then we will have the day off to explore the Aboriginal art and the waters of the Koolpin Gorge. I am very much looking forward to it. 5km doesn't sound much, however our packs are the heaviest they will be throughout the trek and it is slow going in the heat and humidity which is unbelievable. I am looking forward to the meals, if only to lighten the packs... however with all this exercise I expect I am going to need every mouthful for its energy value.

As dusk is approaching, our world is cooling. The walking today was over rocky terrain which made it a slow progression up the escarpment to the Tablelands. The rocks are not always stable and carrying heavy packs... with the unaccustomed weight sitting heavily, causes some concern. Yesterday our walk was punctuated by the smell of wild mint as we crushed the plants with our tramping. Today we have forded raging torrents (that sounds poetic) and floated our packs across quieter waters.

There was a constant awareness of the presence of the 'salties' and despite the heat, it was enough to drive us from any quieter waterway or cool pool. The scenery is delightful though, and the sounds are magic. Listening to the song of the water and sweeter tone of birds echoing through the canyon is a constant reminder that this is a special place of peace. It is really a primitive world here, and we are the intruders. It is strange how you become so very conscious of this.

We have found two of the three art sites, one is quite good featuring the spirit men. The water is brackish but sweet and despite the hardships of carrying full packs the delights are more than gratifying but we have now left the threat of the salt water croc behind.

We have taken a moment to rest in a creek bed after what was really only a 8km long walk, though it seemed longer. I've decided that clambering over rocks is not my forte' though walking on relatively level ground is marvellous. We've changed our route due to drier conditions than expected and though water is not exactly scarce, today was a relatively dry walk.

With trepidation I've found myself swimming in crocodile infested pools... I've even seen the crocodile! My first, and sweet little freshwater baby croc it was too. These guys are much more friendly and offer little threat to our safety aside from being all of 4 inches long, although they tease me that where there are babies, there is bound to be a mother. I refuse to think of that though.

Our Army Survivalist, Tim, has joined us and Howard and Merrin have departed. Tim is very interesting company and has volunteered to teach us a few things along the way. Our group is becoming cohesive, though being the only woman and six men is a little daunting. But they set the pace by what I can manage which is great. Ron is quite considerate and often looks to me when it's break time to see if I need it. Although Feroze is the eldest and is having more difficulty I think. Deferring to the female saves some of his masculine pride, and I allow it. Women's lib would be truly ashamed of me I'm afraid but I see little harm in us each caring for the welfare of other party members. We are after all dependent on each other for our survival, there is no easy way out... or magic bus which is going to turn up around the next corner. This is total wilderness and with the breathtaking escarpment no vehicle could make its way in here even if it had the wherewithal.

We are still in the Koolpin water way and today we supped on some small, sweetish native plums which we came across. I'm learning some fascinating things and I'm very much looking forward to reaching the main water system again. I've decided fording raging streams is preferable to trekking along dry creek beds. It is a lot cooler even if it is frightening. The worry is knowing that you are crocodile bait, should you land yourself into one of the deeper pools after being swept along. However so far we have managed to stay together.

You are left to wonder though, what would occur should an accident happen. I daresay they do. It is a daunting thought and I find that I am looking at each of the men with a new knowledge in what would be necessary for their and my survival. I wonder if this is what meanders through the minds of people in centuries past, who have found themselves in situations of isolation. It is the birth of a new awareness and it almost steps you back in time... As for the personality mix of our group, I find that Tim has had a softening effect, Sebastian is climbing off his high horse while Feroze has a helper in him. Ron is becoming a favourite uncle and Michael a brother.

Naum has settled into the group and made his personal claim in regards to myself very clear. So things are going along very well.

DAY 4 Saturday 11th January, 1992

Today we headed off up the Koolpin Gorge in preparation to cutting over the saddle into the Twin Falls system. We've been bush bashing today, through Pandanus forests, supping on little wild bush plums and trekking along the lagoon system. Listening to Tim on bush survival, and Ron on art and foods is fascinating and I am learning a great deal. I thought I knew my world well, and I am learning that there is so much that I do not know. How can I begin to explain the difference...; I think I find it almost impossible. 

We're lunching in the shadow of some Aboriginal art featuring the Rainbow Serpent etc. it is very well preserved and I love it. Today I also glimpsed my first dingo, who was stalking wild pig. We had been tracking them for kilometres out of interest and eventually we found the litter. We gave them a wide berth however, as wild mother pigs are not renown for their hospitality and we didn't fancy being the entertainment for the afternoon. We have travelled about 13km + and it was good travelling, but the break at the art site is good too - very good. The humidity is breathtaking and I am beginning to appreciate the advice to wear natural fibres. The sweat courses all over the body and the small pesky bush flies adore the opportunity for body salts and moisture. Though we are each settling more into the way of bushwalking by the cool of the morning, resting over the heat of mid-day and walking into the late afternoon. I can feel myself growing stronger each day, having overcome the initial weariness of unaccustomed exercise.

DAY 5 Sunday 12th January, 1992

Once more we have been feasting on bush plums - I'm going to grow one of these tree's at home! I've also seen what water buffalo do to the water holes. I had thought it was a shame that they are shooting them out, but after seeing the mess they make of the water holes I'm in total agreement with the eradication program. The water holes, so essential in the survival of man and animals alike, are unusable. The water is fouled and access impossible due to the mire of mud and trampled, softened earth. It is simply a death trap for any animal who tries to access the water. Who would have ever thought that one animal could inflict such suffering on so many. It is no wonder to me now that Asia was denied the same indigenous wildlife that we enjoy so much in Australia.

We're in the Twin Falls system tonight and we have visited one of the major art sites which was a ceremonial area and tool making site. I also have a blister. :-\ The water hole we're at is paradise and has a large croc population. I'm even used to having these freshwater crocodiles swim up to within a few feet and look me over.

Our tent is pitched just up from an old nest and there are croc tracks all about the beach which we've decided means a croc of about 3-4 feet lives somewhere in the pool, probably mother croc. The flood rains haven't arrived which has meant a hot walk for the past two days but we will be in the Twin Falls system for the next two days which also means plenty of swimming. Due to the heat and humidity, we are jumping willingly into every pool over a few feet deep, that we come across. It is reminiscent of my childhood when we ventured at every possible moment into the cool salt waters of the Georges River to play, fish or feast on the rock oysters which grew prolifically on the rocks and piers. Only here, instead of oysters, we feast on bush plumbs and other gatherable bush tucker as we find it.

I think I have lost my fear of the freshwater croc which is good and although there are moments of doubt about my staying power - mainly due to blisters and sun burn. There are moments when I'm glad I'm here, though I do at times seriously doubt my sanity. Did you know that with croc's you only see their eyes in the water, like those funny cartoons and another thing I'm getting used to is that of naked males popping in and out of the water. They are considerate of me most of the time but on the whole it is becoming something of a non-event.

The night noises of the bush are lovely to listen to, dusk also brings relief from the flies and in part the humidity. We also have learnt that the green ants which live on so many boughs and bushes, also eat the flies, those lovely pesky things! The bush camp at night is a wondrous experience, sitting around listening to the most outrageous tales and stories... jokes which come to mind and life experiences of our companions. It is a time to relax, enjoy and appreciate the wondrous sky which is so bedecked with stars that you could spend all night exploring the heavens.

DAY 6 Monday 13th January, 1992

We tried some different native fruits today, a kind of acacia nut which the turtles eat. Yesterday we also tried a type of native apple which looked like a Delicious, only in miniature. We came across a King Brown snake this morning, one of our most dangerous snakes on the continent. He was the biggest snake on the block and he knew it. He was the colour of dried grass and around fifteen feet in length, as fat as curry and he wasn't going to move for anyone. We weren't going to argue! He was master of his domain, coiled sleepily into the long grass through which we were tramping. He gave us all a bad moment and after we had marvelled at his nonchalance we left him in peace.  I think we all know who was boss in that situation.

We also disturbed a few wild cattle - huge beasts they are too... As well we are finding the usual animals to be found in the Australian wild. Today we will travel around 10km, the same as yesterday and my sun burn from our time at Catherine Gorge is almost healed, though I've developed a nasty blister on my toe - if it's not one thing it's another.

We should be at our camp site in about 5km time and then we will explore some cave painting that are in a nearby gorge. Ron, our guide, has decided that we will have a full day off at Twin Falls which will be lovely. I'm very much looking forward to it, though it is four days off yet.

I can feel myself getting fitter which is great. I'll be bounding up stairs when I get back to work and hopefully I will trim down and brown up a bit. You just never know. This afternoon I spent cliff climbing, imagine me! cliff climbing ! I HATE HEIGHTS!! I had a few bad moments but I also had help with Michael and Naum so all went well. The art site we climbed for was very good with a marvellous Yam Head figure and a spectacular view from a huge overhang.

Tonight we are still camped along the Twin Falls system though there isn't a lot of water running up this far. Though mind, we have a large swimming hole which is a God-send. I've decided I like the small green native plum and any given opportunity I am raiding the bush floor. Naum on the other hand has acquired a taste for green ants. They nest in curled leaves and if you inadvertently brush against them, they will slowly make their way to the moisture of your neck and will bite viciously. I think he sees it as his own revenge.. although they do taste extraordinarily sweet. You pinch them between your fingers holding their head and pincers, and eat the hunny filled sack of their hind which has a lemon bitter tang. They are quite delightful and refreshing, surprisingly enough.

We are presently experimenting in flavouring our tea with the whitish acacia nut. Most of the native foods have a citric taste but the plum is the most pleasant. The group is going well. Michael has become a friend and Sebastian is settling down though he is watchful, in the way a man is watchful of a woman, which I find annoying. Tim is very helpful and something of a companion teacher. While Feroze - I think he feels isolated as the eldest member of the group. Ron is still the favourite Uncle and something of a wag in full-form I think. He loves his bushwalking and is a great camp cook.

It is just on sunset now and the parrots and birds song is filling the air. Our pesky bush fly will be going to bed soon - a nightly event which we all look forward to and the crickets have begun to sing. Sitting here, surrounded by ti-tree, melaleuca and ghost gums is lovely. Kakadu is starkly beautiful. I had imagined it sub-tropical but it isn't, you could be anywhere in the Aussie bush except for the Parndana's palms and the pockets of sub-tropic vegetation.

Outstanding though are the rocky outcrops and of course the crocodiles in the creeks. Just when I had decided that I had got used to the crocodiles we had to go and meet the King Brown Snake!! I don't think I'll even try to get used to those.

DAY 7 Tuesday 14th January, 1992

I'm perched atop a rock overlooking the valley, while the guys take a dip. It seems for the first time in a week we may just get rain. The clouds overhead are beginning to boil in they way they do for a tropic storm and it is invigorating watching them. I'm not in the pool because I'm nursing my blisters plus I've found myself a cool breeze.

It is funny to think that we have had no contact with the outside world for almost a week now. The place could have blown-up and we wouldn't know it. We're getting into much grassier land, with the grass reaching 5 feet and over which just about burries me in a sea of drying grass and seeds from their willow heads. The melaleuca's are quite tall and bear their bows with an ancient grace which is almost poetic.

It is nice to be in-communicardo, it teaches you something about yourself I think. I wonder if we will meet anyone else at all on this trip and in a way I hope not. I suppose that it is selfish of me but it is so peaceful. To describe the grandeur of this place!! We are in a catacomb of rocks and caves in this valley and I've discovered some of the best art I have seen. I know I have really only seen such a small part of Kakadu, you could spend years here and not see it all, it is an amazing place.

The caves are endless, the crevasses breathless. We are fortunate in that a fire, so much a part of the Aussie bush, has not long been through and the vegetation, though well on the way, is still very much recovering. As such we can move around with relative ease - this would not always be the case normally. I will leave off describing the art as the photo's will do a far better job than I, but the terrain is like a scrag of mobile rock and large boulders which have been tossed and tumbled about by the hand of the Gods or the thrashing of the Spirit Men - it is magnificent. 

To be a child here and to explore with a child's delight would be heaven. I have learnt that few people have ventured this way, we are one of a handful. To get here you have to cross swamp land and there are places where you just disappear up to your neck in the overgrown bogs and water holes. Naum near vanished in one and the weight of his pack would have sent him into a subterranean catacomb, however the men managed to haul him free. I felt totally helpless as it was beyond my strength. If anything the incident has made me very conscious of our vulnerability and still I learn more about my limits. I doubt I will forget readily that moment between seeing Naum drop suddenly into the watery bog and knowing I was unable to reach him, and the speed with which the men pulled him free. The flash of realisation that he carried death on his back with the weight of the pack is a second in time I will not readily forget.

We're up inside a valley that will eventually take us into the Jim Jim falls system and we are about 10km from the Arnhem Land border. Ron was saying that we had to be careful not to cross the border, which is just a line on the map, as the penalty is death - quite simply. The Government, or no body or soul could commute the sentence which would be carried out by the Tribes in the moment of discovery that you had transgressed the unwritten law. Arnhem Land is Tribal land and it is not by our laws or social structures, that it is built and governed.

There is thunder rolling-in all about us, of what hopefully will be the first of the monsoon rains. We are camped in the cave site after trekking through tall grass and ferns. This site is a "Womens Cave" used for living and birthing, and as a instructional resource for what is 'women's business'; It is fascinating. The cave itself is deep and protected. The ancient fire bed at its mouth hold chips of rock and spoiled arrow heads which have been discarded by their creators as unsuited to their needs. There is a delightful sheltered water supply nearby and I feel very at home here. The area is grassed well with Pandanus palms and eucalypts - a really pleasant spot. It is a place which breathes of rebirth, creation and mellowing of time. A woman's place and strangely enough, the men feel somewhat uncomfortable here...; They have set the camp away from the women's cave, although I would have it that our tent is set closer.

DAY 8 Wednesday 15th January, 1992

We have crossed the woodlands and grasslands today, a long dry trek of around 12km + and now I'm sitting beside the Jim Jim creek which is like a river. We've seen our first wild buffalo today also, and what a big beast he was. Bigger than a bull by far and as black as thunder. They are very thick set, huge animals, which bear no resemblance to the domestic breed we have previously seen. They are a proud and magnificent animal in the wild.

After we left the "Womens Cave" this morning we found the "Mens Cave" and a quite good drawing of an emu. The theme is once again instructional for the young, concentrating primarily on hunting and the "business of men". There are drawings and art which are obviously used to teach the boys what is occurring within the birthing cave of the women and it is logical I guess, that there would be a certain curiosity about the "business of women" displayed by the men.

There is so much Art about that I am becoming quite blase' about it all. Now I am ready to see some nice water falls. I wish to be around water after so little, of having "plenty of water". We have had more than enough for our needs but it is so nice to be camped by a river. We will stay alongside the Jim Jim for three days and then cross over again to Twin Falls system.

Part II