This morning we walked about 8km + over stony country and then through woodlands. We came across more buffalo and a number of wallaroo's and kangaroo's. They are a stockier breed than on the East Coast Roo and twice the size. We're camping at a place called "The Monoliths" on the Jim Jim river. It is a lovely lake, a mass or clear water crowned with 4 monolith rock outcrops, seemingly standing adrift in the dark water. It is quite impressive.

We had storms all around us last night though we didn't get anything right overhead of us. For a "Wet season" it would seem that the Monsoons haven't arrived. It's been an easy going, relaxing day lounging at the feet of the monoliths. I've come to realise that Aboriginal art is scattered all over the place - which makes sense as it is an Aboriginal reserve.

We are atop the tablelands which are vast and the "falls" - Twin & Jim Jim, cascade down the sides of the tablelands into the lowlands, which also makes sense but I didn't think of it before this trip. Kakadu isn't tropic, though there are tropic pockets of Forrest. It is mainly the Aussie bush which I am most used to. There are many animals but it should be remembered that most of our animals are nocturnal. Though we disturb them at rest more often than not.

Ron tells us that normally you don't see the range of wildlife which we have seen. Perhaps it has something to do with the late monsoon. The flies are the worst, though they go at sunset and return with sun rise. At first I found myself contemplating staying inside the tent all day, they are so pesky, but the heat and humidity would soon drive me out. Only while submerged in the water, be it streams or water holes, do you get complete relief from them. So we spend a lot of time submerged - it is divine to just sit, neck deep in water.

We don't have many mosquitoes, also probably due to the lack of the monsoons, but when camped on the sand we are troubled by sand flies but I prefer these to flies. I must admit though that I am even beginning to cope with the flies.

After coming close to one or two of the more poisonous varieties of snake you begin to realise that this isn't a zoo and that we are in the wilds, hundreds of miles from civilisation. Ron talks of times where he has had to leave a group and scout hours for help to bring in "Air-vac" and have a trekker who has been injured evacuated.

Other things also take on major proportions, such as shoes - particularly when they begin to fall apart, which has happened to two of our party. You can't just fix them unless you have the wherewithal. Even though experience has taught the guides to carry contact cement, when the tube runs out it is gone. Tim thought to bring an extra pair of shoes and Feroze holds his together with rope. Missing buttons can also be a problem as Sebastian found, and cloths falling apart is a reality in this heat, humidity, with the wear and tear. Fortunately I bought a good supply of clothing - 3 changes, though I doubt much of it will be salvageable. I wish I had left a change back at the car because I think we will all look something of a fright when we get back to civilisation. I would never have imagined that your clothing and footwear could disintegrate so readily as it does in the wilderness, with the combination of constant damp, humidity and body oils and salts.

I can't say that there is anything that I wish I had apart from ice perhaps, but I am glad that the responsibility of dinner time meals hasn't fallen to me to either work-out or cook. Having Ron do it is a luxury I've come to appreciate.

Toilet paper is also becoming at a premium. Feroze has run out and is sharing with Sebastian - the roll that is, not the sheets! As we are half way through our trip today, all these shortages are beginning to surface. Naum and I are fortunate in that we seem to have bought sufficient. I hope so anyway!

Tomorrow we walk to Jim Jim Falls and lunch at the top then drop down to the low lands, or wet lands (with the saltwater crocs) and camp the night there before we head off to Twin Falls and return to the table lands.

Our radio is also no longer serviceable due primarily to stupidity. The battery was packed upside down by a person who shall remain nameless, and the acid has leaked out which means that we are no longer able to contact the outside world. The situation was discussed and we all decided that we would forgo contact with the outside world as our trek means more to us now than our continued contact. Once we get to higher ground Tim and Ron will try another transmission on what little charge the radio battery still carries and let the base know what we are doing.

DAY 10 Friday 17th January, 1992

At present we are setting up camp beneath the Jim Jim falls. It has been an arduous day today, not that we travelled any great distance, just that the last leg from the top of the falls to the bottom was extremely difficult and frightening. We arrived at the top of the falls this morning and after due admiration, descended part way to the upper pool. There are actually three pools which comprise the falls (and 3 falls), the most famous fall is the lower one - which of course most people see. The pools are deep and not too turbulent but delightful to swim in and we have spent a lovely morning.

Throughout the trying climb down to the lowlands, we supped on wild passionfruit. The taste is similar to passionfruit - the domestic variety, only with less flavour, and they are considerably smaller like most wild fruits. You can only eat these wild passionfruit when they are yellow or they are toxic (like the domestic kind) but they are a bush delight.

Also today, we met our first "other people", two in a 4 wheel drive camper van which arrived at the bottom of the falls (the low lands). It is funny to experience the strange sense of intrusion, I almost resent the intrusion in a manner not unrelated to territorial emotions. Anyone would think we were isolationists but it is a reminder that there is a world out there. We also had a taste of a wind storm but the monsoon rains which can follow scurried around us.

I think one of the most striking things about Kakadu are the huge boulders of sandstone strewn around and the bold escarpments of red, yellow and grey rock. What came as a rude shock though was some Art which we have seen today. It was relatively new and executed in acrylic paint, it seemed a insult to the nobility of Aboriginal Art and was done by an Aboriginal artist who considered this restorative work. I hope I never have to experience such an insult to the Dreaming Spirits again.

DAY 11 Saturday 18th, 1992

Today started like a disaster for me I am afraid to protest, in a typically feminine fashion. It has improved since I'm glad to add, but to begin my tale of catastrophe, I fell in the creek! Fully dressed and fully laden I ended up in the drink! I could have cried and promptly announced I was going to sit there and sulk despite Feroze's offer of help, as he tried to drag me from my watery grave. Naum rescued me, picked me up and shook me out. Then to add insult to injury I turned my weak ankle clambering over rocks, just to add to my humour or lack of it.

As morning progressed, we clambered and struggled through the lowland swamps and fought off the hordes of flies and green ants. Stumbling onto a creek we caught sight of our first real big croc, glaring at us from the weed in the water hole, nothing between us and breakfast. He looked hungry too... Excited and scared half out of my wits, I fidgeted for Naum to take a photo (which he missed) then promptly realised I was fidgeting for another reason - Green ants! Ants everywhere!! I had disturbed a nest and was covered in them!

Everyone else was leaping across a narrowish point in the water hole (in which the croc resided) to the other bank, and it was my turn next - the croc? well he had vanished. I knew I couldn't do it - but there was no alternative as most of the party was already on the other side. Dumping my pack (for Naum to deal with) in a typically feminine tantrum, I leapt to a certain death, and all but landed flat on my face. They dragged me up, dusted me of and I knew I had reached the end of my tether; I promptly went on strike.

To console me Ron decreed a smoko and settling me down on my pack for a seat, I was left hugging my water bottle. At this point I was prepared to sulk in a major way. A few minutes later however, Ron and Tim returned with armfuls of wild passionfruit to get me out of my ill humour, and delighted, I proceeded to gorge myself. It wasn't until latter that Tim mentioned on the side, that more than a dozen or so passionfruit will give you the runs. Well I'm resigned to my fate, and in a better humour now. Somehow it is a fitting end to a totally unfortunate beginning to a sweltering day. (The croc was all of 18 inches long by the way)

We have reached Twin falls Gorge and it is a idyllic place, though we have yet to go up to the falls. We need to float up 3/4 km to view the falls and the gorge sides are sheer and majestic in a lovely red stone that towers overhead. We seem to be surrounded by the gorge escarpment. Our camp site is a sandy island, clothed in Australian brush and palms and it is delightful despite the flies.

I've solved my fly problem !! A wattle stuck under my hat does wonders even though it looks some what ridiculous, however we are past caring as we all look somewhat bush roughened a fact which makes me smile. Anyway the Twin Falls is delightful, particularly floating up the gorge with the sheer cliffs on each side. The water, as with a lot of the pools and rivers, is bath temperature almost, except where the falls cascade where there it is colder with the added depth.

I have just learnt that the Kakadu Park is some 20,000 sq km + in it's entirety which is quite impressive - apparently it is equal to the State of Victoria. Today we have restocked the larder with the food drop supplies and tomorrow our packs will be heavier but we now have plenty of food. Paper and pen has become a premium for those who forgot and Milo wasn't in the food supplies and I did enjoy the odd cup! Though so did a few others, making something of a meal of it I'm afraid. It is odd how you grow resentful of small issues when in a place of isolation... I hope he misses the Milo as much as I know I will.

DAY 12 Sunday 19th January, 1992

Today was a relatively easy day with a late start, but a hard hill. We climbed to the top of Twin falls and then spidered down a natural chimney that would give you the horrors (and gave them to me) but the rewards were great as the pool at the top was wonderful and the minor falls spectacular. Spidering down the natural rock chimney was an experience which still frightens me to think of it. The only way I could do it, was simply not to think of it! We carried no safely ropes and Tim and Ron guided us each step of the way. Sebastian however froze half way down which left us all pressed against rock face, above him, while Tim tried to talk him through it. For the first time I honestly felt like dropping a dirty great boulder on his head and if it wasn't for the humour of Michael and Naum I would have been some what acid about the whole which would not have helped. Well I guess I am only human after all... hehehe

Once at the base of the first falls, we leisurely watched a water monitor stake it's territory while we lunched - it didn't seem to mind us too much. The afternoon was delighful as we clamboured amongst the rocks and pooled waters. Later we climbed back up the chimney and then up the pinnacle lookout to a breathtaking view. We supped on wild plums which were quite sweet and native cinnamon which was very bland and tonight we are camped beside the Twin River system up on the escarpment, once more.

The pools of water are large and deep, varying in temp from bath temp. to quite coolish but a pool of cold water is beginning to look very attractive, if only we could find one. We have dingo's in the area, and of course parrots which fill the air with their colour and noise in the odd moments when we disturb them.

The breeze is silken and the rocks beside the pools, where we are lounging as we eat dinner, are warm to our touch. Naum and Tim are busy feeding flies to the fish, which is a favourite pass time and the bush is quiet, the lull before the night cacophony. This is bliss, a garden of Eden.

DAY 13 Monday 20th January, 1992

Today I did my paddy, sat down on a rock in the middle of a stream and had a good old fashioned weep. Now what led to this state of affairs (which was merited) is a long story, however to tell the whole, I, of necessity will need to include things of inconsequence - such as the Monsoon storm which arrived last night, which in turn caused the rivers to rise.

However to begin the day, it was a refreshing start but the terrain was difficult, a loose rocky bed on patches of sand. As much as I hate this terrain I did cope, however we needed to cross the creek/river a number of times which meant off and on with the pack, shoes and socks. Because some of us wade through and others remove shoes, our group broke into two which meant group No. 1 got a nice break while waiting for No., 2, who got a much smaller break. Need I add, I was in group 2 and at the end of it.

Another problem was my leg stretch isn't as wide as the men's, something that has been a constant problem but a helping hand goes a long way. Today with many crossings I repeatedly found problem with leg span, which slowed me even further reducing No. 2 group to Me, Naum and Tim, while the others galloped ahead as we came closer to the Amphitheatre, a lovely cascade of falls into a natural amphitheatre of sheer rock cliffs - quite beautiful. Anyway, with exhaustion creeping in and far behind the others in what was a difficult and demanding stretch, I found myself balancing my way across the creek when I got stuck - straddled across a particularly fast gully of water, with my feet cramping and Naum and Tim trying to figure out how to solve my dilemma (pack and all) I was fast losing my cool and I admit to having thoughts of dumping my pack and the lot into the river.

We did sort it out, but almost the very next step put me on a large unstable rock which pitched me straight into Parndana's thorns and into the creek. I did my cool! spat the dummy, announced I was going to have a good cry while I dethorned myself. I stomped (as mush as one can stomp when one is wading) over to the nearest flat platform and then promptly burst into tears. Tim couldn't deal with it, though I imagine it is one of the few problems he can't deal with, and split post-haste.

Naum, my wonderful stalwart companion, mate and lover, quietly sorted out the packs, took them to the opposite shore and proffered a little T.L.C. and a warm strong shoulder after which I felt much better. Anyway the day improved, I think Ron heard of my little outburst and has made a point or two of asking if I can manage a little further every now and then, and I've caught him watching me when he thinks I'm not looking, but I'm much better for my weep. It is nice to be typically female on occasion, and a great leveller.

We also saw a wild pig, a huge beast, steely grey in colour, who could feed a banquet. Fierce looking beasts they are and I am now much rested after a lovely lunch break. So it is on to the last few klms to our camp site tonight for now... At this moment we're inside our tent while the monsoon rages outside our tent, it is around 5:00pm and there is thunder and lightning flashing away. The monsoon storms are ferocious and wild like no other storms I have ever experienced. The sky boils and glows with sheet lightening, the turbulence is wildly invigorating and added to the drenching rains and wild winds brings to mind the most primeval of feelings. Yet scarce minutes after they are spent, the world is calm and balmy again and the Spirits have swept the skies incandescent blue once more. Leaving a carpet of moisture which glistens and twinkles in a new refreshed world. It is delightful!

Our little tent is proving quite a good investment and we are very pleased with it . The afternoon is past and all is growing peaceful again. Ron has been collecting passionfruit for me (I think to ensure my cheeriness) and despite the known consequences, I still adore them. If someone had asked me at morning tea, if I wanted to go home I would have said yes, but if you were to ask me now then I would answer no. The trip is like that, it has been since the very beginning.

One thing I am sure of though and that is that I am glad I went on this adventure now, and not later. I would never have achieved this if we had waited, and for that I am thankful. We are camped on a sandy island amid the split stream, but what delights the eye and the body is the natural spa. The best I have ever found. On the way to the spa is a carpet of moss and roots that is so soft underfoot that it is like true carpet. The spa is formed by the cascade over a ledge and into a pocketed rock floor and the bubbles struggle up along the rock shelf creating a delicious spa over a large area. The bubble jets range from torrid to gentle and the water is warm as it tickles merrily against the skin..

Our monsoon storm has passed though there is more expected so the Top End Wet, has finally arrived..

DAY 14 Tuesday 21st February, 1992

Today we rejoined Koolpin Creek system, even stomped over an old camp site where we had passed before. Naum also picked up the buffalo horns he lamented missing on the 3rd, or was it 2nd day. Anyway the creek has a lot more water in it than the last time we crossed it and at the moment I'm sitting under a umbrella in the middle of the monsoon forrest. A incongruous sight! But I'm comfortable, everyone else is getting wet - and they thought I was mad bringing my little foldup umbrella!

It is late afternoon we are camped beside Koolpin River and it is a very nice camp spot up further from where we last camped. Sebastian has strained his ankle which is a pain, both for him and us, so we will have to wait until morning to see how he goes. Apart from that, we did about 20km today at least, which is quite good.

DAY 15 Wednesday 22nd February, 1992

This mornings walking was slow going, mainly because of Sebastian's foot and Feroze's knee (he wrenched it yesterday also). Ron also has had an allergic reaction to something, he came up very flushed and decidedly ill which is something of a worry. Tim thinks it may well be something he has eaten, a reaction to the native foods they have been gathering and without the radio we are unable to call for a medical opinion. Ron however has some antihistamines in the medical kit and this has helped the wild flush of his skin to subside a bit, as well as slow the erratic race of his heart. It could also well be that he suffers a reaction to March fly bites, but I feel it is something he has eaten. Anyway it has taken the wind out of Sebastian's sails and his long suffering whine about his ankle which has burdened the other men with the contents of his pack, bringing things somewhat into perspective - we amble along.

We have visited a very interesting rock art site this morning, before Ron took crook. It featured a circular pattern which is indicative of a water hole - something like a road sign in meaning, however it is unusual in it's location, in that it is endemic to the Central Desert region rather than the coastal and inner coastal area's. Also further into the rock outcrop in an unusual figure. Ron feels it may belong to the Bulla region, which is a sacred site and closed to the public. We have stumbled upon it and in realising its significance, left quietly.

However this site is relatively unknown and was overlooked when they were making record of the Aboriginal art sites. It really is quite unusual and exceptional in its preservation. In my travels though, and about the Northern Territory and Kakadu, I have come to realise that in a world where frontiers remaining are few, Kakadu and the N.T. on a whole is one the last.

Ron at the monent is much recovered, I believe it was a reaction to a fruit he tested. It was an orange fruit and emerald green leaves. Tim (our resident expert) found it and neither of them could identify it. Part of the process of identity was the taste test where you don't actually chew or swallow. Ron bit into the fruit then unable to identify it Tim took a sample of the fruit and leaves to later identify and test it. It was after then that Ron had his reaction. Numbing of the lips, tingling mouth and fingers, flushing, headache, biliousness, temperature, racing pulse. Tim feels it may be a cyanide or alkaloid some of which are quite toxic but after some antihistamines and rest, he is almost much improved. We are all hoping he doesn't drop dead through the night.

This possibility is one we have quietly discussed as we sat around the camp fire. Ron is asleep at present and likely to remain so for some time. Tim and he went over emergency procedures and then Tim suggested that in the event of the worst occurring then it would be best if two of them scouted out of Kakadu and made for the Uranium mine which is still staffed by a single caretaker. This would take the best part of 7 hours to reach by foot, and then with night fall, it would be the next day till the air-vac could get to us.

The two elected to scout out were Naum and Tim, needless to say I hit the roof and was not overly impressed at playing nurse to two almost totally dependent males and one dead companion for what could be two days! Naum tried to placate me, however the only alternative was that I would scout out with Tim, and Naum would be left at the main camp. This has reason, as then at least the main camp has an experienced bushman who can track, however there is the consideration that I would slow Tim down, perhaps adding hours to our return.

We have reached a empasse' which remains unresolved as we each prepare to turn in for the night. I pray that all will be resolved in the morning and that there is no need for a decision to be made.

We are camped beside a tributary of the Koolpin once more. Tomorrow we join the main river all going well. One thing which we (as novices) find confusing is the total lack of names for peak's, rivers, plains and even monolith. Apart from major river systems such as the 'South Alligator, or Koolpin etc. nothing is named which means being able to identify your possition becomes something of an art. Ones first impulse is to name everything, but when faced with the problem, the names chosen often sound quite prosaic, even when trying to be imaginative. As an Australian also, I'm tired of colourless surnames of dead explorers, their wives and friends, or the like, so perhaps the Aboriginal names (if only we knew them) would be more appropriate.

Maybe this is why so vast an Area is unnamed. It would be nice to think so. Perhaps one day they will be appropriately named, and we can only hope they do name them appropriately and not after some dead chooks cousin from a place we neither know or care for.

DAY 16 Thursday 23rd February, 1992

Today Ron is alive and well, much to our relief. He was up and about before any of us and so we broke camp and headed for a place which actually had a name, "Freezing Gorge". A prettier place I have never seen. We walked for miles up saddles and down gullies until we dropped into a monsoon gorge which was like another world. The whole was reminiscent of 'Lost World' and Freezing Gorge began with a fiercely picturesque water fall which dropped into a deep pool. From there the water ran into the Gorge proper.

The sun only reaches the water for about 1 hour each day and with the water running between vertical cliffs on each side for at least 2km + and only as wide as around 15 feet it was breathtaking. We had to swim the length with droplets of water cascading down the walls and the water depths disappearing into dark holes while we floated our packs on the air beds. The experience was worth all the hassles. I loved it.

Best of all though, the water is truly freezing and we all are delighting in the fact. It is like a hidden world which captures the primitive nature of a primeval time. The rock face is covered in damp mosses and delicate ferns struggling for an existence in the crevasses and rock face chips of sheer slippery cliff.

Floating down the gorge is eerie and you half expect a bunyip, our mythical water creatures, to sneak out from under the rock cliff and menace the group... such is this wondrous place. It is a place of shivers and dreams.

As we near the end of our day, Ron is gradually fore-warning us of the impending civilization as we edge towards the Plateau's escarpment. Naum and I are snacking on some of the last of our supplies, this we saved for the last... a feast of crackers, soft brie cheese and caviare which the others are amazed at. It is delicious and a fitting end to a delightful day. This was a special treat which I packed for Naum and I would happily share it with the others if there was enough. Packing little treats is a wonderful way to travel and we have shared these throughout out trek, but this... is a feast that we have kept to ourselves, a small reward for our caring for each other and somehow it makes it all the more delicious. Even if the others do think we are quite mad.

DAY 17 Friday 24th January, 1992

It has been a long and tiring trek this morning as we crossed the grass plains towards the escarpment and sitting at the top of Stag Creek Falls I realise that the trip is nearly over. Civilisation beckons. I'm sated with wilderness and I still hear its call in the distance but for now I crave the comforts of all that is civilised, pampered and ordered. We are headed now towards the places of men, and my spirit is tearing with my need to be surrounded by civilisation once more.

In the distance I can see El Sharana, a mining settlement at the end of the Gorge. It's metal roof reflects the sun and there I know is a telephone and a 4 wheel drive which will return us to another degree of civilisation, degree by degree... and it is welcome. Though the harshness and simplicity and dramatic beauty behind me leaves a tender ghost. But for now I've got to climb down this bloody mountain and there aren't any tracks!!

The evening has fallen and we are at Cooinda Resort in the wetlands, and civilisation is lovely. We trekked into El Sherana looking like straggled lambs and met a character called Mick who caretakes for El Sherana. El Sherana is an old uranium mine and very interesting it was too. We spent lunch listening to stories of days gone by, reading a week-old newspaper to catch up with current events and listening to news of the group that went in after us on a 10 day expedition and which got into some difficulties at the 2nd river crossing in the Koolpin System. They had need to Air-Vac a girl who went over the falls and suffered a fractured pelvis. She was lucky she didn't fall into the pool below where a known saltie would have been grateful for a easy meal.

Anyway it is nice to be sleeping on a mattress and tomorrow we are off on a complimentary cruise into the wetlands to see the salt water crocs and birds which is delightful surprise and a lovely finish to our tour.

The wetlands of Kakadu are so distinctly different from the tableland that it is marvellous. Of course the monsoons haven't arrived properly, which has allowed us to get here, enabling us to descend down the escarpment unimpeded by slippery rock face. The early mornings have a touch of chill in them sometimes, which tells of the coming dry, but the rain can be as late as April so who knows? We've just had a lovely feed of barramundi and it was delightful - such is life.

DAY 18 Saturday 25th January, 1992

Day 18, the last of our Kakadu adventure and early this morning we cruised over the Yellow Waters of the South Alligator River in true tourist fashion. The birds were plentiful if not as abundant as in the dry and the crocodiles - salties, were more than evident. It was exciting and I loved it. Crocodiles in the wild are unnerving and most deceptive is the power that is contained within the leather of their bodies.

An afternoon spent touring Aboriginal Art, which has been set aside for the tourist, though spectacular, was lacking the raw and primitive drama of art in it's native state; However it was much enjoyed and quite spectacular. We visited the National Parks centre and viewed "The Changing Seasons" of Kakadu in a breathless slide show where you needed a dozen pairs of eyes and in all - came to appreciate, deeply, the adventure we had enjoyed.