If you are planning your first trip across the Nullarbor, look forward to it as a great experience, not as a boring trip to be completed in the shortest possible time. Prior to 1976, when the last stretch of corrugated dirt highway was surfaced, it certainly would have been an adventure. Now it is an easy drive on a highway unique in the world and where the travellers seem to feel a sense of comraderie - everyone waves at you, not only other motorhomers. You are likely to encounter hardy souls on bicycles as well as the inevitable semi-trailers. Avoid travelling the Eyre Highway on weekends, particularly Sundays, as that is when most of the trucks do that run.

The Indian-Pacific railway runs right across the flat treeless Nullarbor Plain with a straight stretch of 478km whereas the Eyre Highway runs along the southern edge of the Plain with only one section not flanked by trees.

Availability of petrol/diesel on the highway is not a problem as there are plenty of roadhouses, with Mundrabilla consistently having the cheapest fuel. Fill up at reasonably "normal" prices at Norseman or Penong near Ceduna (Penong is usually cheaper than Ceduna) before setting off on the remote stretch. A guide to diesel prices - Mundrabilla $1.10, Eucla $1.19 and Nullarbor, Border Village, Madura, Cocklebiddy and Caiguna all $1.15. I have been promised a discount for C.M.C.A. members at these last 5 roadhouses by showing your badge. The normal discount available for travellers is 2c per litre with a voucher available at any of the five roadhouses (or the Ceduna roadhouse), but the owner promised to "do better than that" for our members. The prices shown above are current on 22/2/2002, but, as we all know, prices change as quickly as the weather, however the relationship between one fuel outlet and its competition stays roughly the same.

It is unwise to drive at night because of animals on the road so you will need to spend at least two nights in transit and this can be either in caravan parks at the roadhouses or in roadside rest areas. Please see the map for a description of the rest areas and I can assure you that you are unlikely to be alone in your overnight spot. Keep in mind that the toilets are very basic and probably not very clean and that the water tanks are likely to have bullet holes so they don’t hold much water. It is best to be self-sufficient although you can shower at the roadhouses for a fee - Nullarbor $1; Caiguna $2; Balladonia $3.50. They will usually fill a container of drinking water at no charge if you buy fuel. Showers are free at the roadhouses at Penong and Norseman.

While travelling the highway take the time to enjoy the unique features of the area. The Nullarbor Plain is the world’s biggest single lump of limestone, covering an area of 250,000 sq. km. and was once part of the ocean floor. In places the highway is very close to the spectacular Bunda Cliffs where the flat plain plunges to the pounding Southern Ocean. The Head of the Bight, 78 km west of the Yalata Roadhouse, gives an incredible view of the bright aqua ocean contrasting with the white Bunda Cliffs curving to the east and to the west. Pods of southern right whales can be seen, often close to the cliffs, between May and October. An entry fee of $8 pp ($6 concession) applies to this lookout as it is on Aboriginal land. Where the highway skirts the Bunda Cliffs there are numerous lookouts and it is worth visiting all of them.

The dingo fence, built to keep dingoes off the sheep stations of South East Australia starts at the southern coast 7km east of Yalata and travels 6,000 km to Jimbour in southern Queensland. To fully appreciate your journey across this unique part of our country pick up the brochure entitled "Australia’s Great Road Journey ‘The Nullarbor’" from the Ceduna Information Office or in Norseman.

Travelling from S.A. to W.A. the quarantine inspection roadblock is at the township of Border Village. All vehicles are thoroughly searched (even in the bed and in the porta potti) and all uncooked fruit, vegetables, honey and plant material must be surrendered. As you will have another day or two travelling to reach the shops of Norseman, you will need to plan (and precook vegetables) for that time. Travelling towards the east the inspection station is outside Ceduna so it is easy to stock up on fresh food there. The supermarket is open 9 - 6 weekdays and 9 - 4 weekends. The supermarket at nearby Thevanard is open 8 - 8 every day except Christmas Day.

As you travel the Eyre Highway in your (possibly) airconditioned motorhome with all comforts and conveniences on board, spare a thought for Edward John Eyre, the first European to cross this region in 1841 in an epic journey of hardship and endurance.

February 2002

Since I wrote this article I have written two books to help travellers in Australia, more details can be found at http://evons-books.blogspot.com/, I also post new articles to associated blogs linked off that site.